Installation of window and door frames. Siding window trim - connection and installation Marking and cutting the upper window trim

You should carefully inspect the building and eliminate all visible defects. There should be no peeling plaster, poorly fixed and falling off building elements. All façade work must be completed. It is necessary to fix the wind and vapor barrier on the facade of the house. Install the sheathing. The crate can be wooden or metal. If necessary, you can additionally insulate the facade.

The tide installation starts from the corner of the house. First, a corner element is made (as shown in the figure), which is attached to the corners of the house. Subsequent ebbs are installed with an overlap of the working surface = 25 mm.

The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the nail strip of the ebb.

External and internal corners are installed at the joints of the walls so that their upper part is 1-3 mm below the cornice or soffit, and the lower part is 4-6 mm below the starting profile.

Platband 89 mm Deque. Before installing the casing, sections of the starting profile are installed along the entire perimeter of the window. We prepare platbands for the window opening; the length of all elements should be equal, respectively, to the length and height of the opening plus two heights of the platbands used. At the top casing in the J-component, cuts 20 mm long are made on both sides, and these “tongues” are bent down, along which water from the top casing will be drained to the side ones.

The installation technology is the same as that of the platband. The only difference is in trimming the window profile and installing a finishing strip around the perimeter of the window.

Installation occurs in the same way as in the above cases, only first the finishing profile is installed, then the slope, and finally we install the platband.

The finishing profile and molding are installed on the wall directly under the roof eaves or soffit.

The H-profile is installed using external and internal corner technology. To install it, you must prepare the mounting points.

The siding is mounted from the starting profile. Make sure the panel lock is fully latched along its entire length. Don't pull the siding too hard, you may bend the hook, check if the panel can slide along its entire length, then secure the panel. Fastening is done only in the center of the nail holes. All subsequent panels are mounted in the same way, do not forget that it is necessary to leave a thermal gap. The installation of the panels ends in the finishing profile or molding, for which it is necessary to make “hooks” in the upper part of the panel.

When installing vertical siding on the base of a house, instead of a starting strip, a flashing and/or edging profile is installed, and a J-profile, edging profile or molding is installed on top. Vertical siding is attached in the same way as corners and H-profiles.

To transition between horizontal and vertical siding and vice versa, an edging profile is used.

Horizontal J-chamfers are installed according to the rules for fastening horizontal elements, inclined J-chamfers are installed according to the rules for installing vertical elements. The finishing profile is attached to the upper edge of the wind board. The chamfer is snapped into the finishing strip using “hooks”. If it is necessary to lengthen the J-chamfer, the elements are overlapped by 25 mm.

The soffit is installed between the molding and the J-bevel. The technology for installing soffit is very simple: a panel of the required size is cut, minus the installation gap. One end goes into the molding, the other into the J-bevel. The next soffit is mounted in the same way and snaps into the lock of the first, and so on.

Please note that installing soffits on vertical surfaces is not recommended and the warranty does not apply to these cases.

To ensure proper installation of vinyl siding, you must strictly follow the installation instructions.

• When installing siding, use only self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion coating.
• All screws must be long enough to penetrate the wall or sheathing at least 35mm. The size of the head of self-tapping screws should not be less than 8 mm.
• When attaching horizontal siding, the self-tapping screw must fit into the nail hole strictly in the center. When fastening vertical panels, the first screw is screwed in close to the upper edge of the upper hole, the remaining fasteners should be made in the center of the holes. Do not screw the screw all the way into the vinyl. Leave a gap of 1 mm.
• To prevent the panel from warping, you need to screw in the screws perpendicular to the wall surface.
• The fastening pitch is a maximum of 40-45 cm for panels and from 20 to 25 cm for accessories.
• Do not drive screws through vinyl.
• When installing siding, take into account its thermal expansion.
• When joining profiles, do not forget that the nail strips of the profiles should not rest against each other.
• When attaching any external objects through vinyl siding, make sure that these objects do not limit the thermal movement of the vinyl. It is strictly forbidden to attach external objects directly to the siding.
• It is very important to install the first panel evenly, otherwise the remaining panels will be installed skewed.

• Installation of the carved platband is carried out similarly to the Decay platband with a width of 89 mm. To assemble the carved platband, it is necessary to prepare a colored insert with a width of 70 to 85 mm.
• The insert is cut from the flat portion of the siding panel.
• To secure the insert, you must make your own brackets.
• The bracket is a strip cut from a flat part of the siding, with an edge bent by 17 mm.
• The insert is placed inside the casing with the front part on the side of the slots. The insert is secured inside the casing with staples, with the curved edge of the staple located on the side opposite to the nail part of the casing. To fix the insert, it is necessary to insert staples into the platband in increments of 150 mm.
• After installing the carved platband, it is necessary to make 2 to 4 drainage holes under the vertical stripes.

• To cut sheathing and siding:
  Hacksaw and hacksaw for metal
  Circular saw or angle grinder (grinder)
  Metal scissors, cutter knife
• For installation:
  Screwdriver/screwdriver or hammer
• For marking:
  Water level, coated cord, plumb line, long level, corner, tape measure, pencil
• Special tools:
  Hole punch for creating mounting holes
  Notch punch for snapping panels
  Dismantling hook for dismantling siding panels

Range

The location of windows in the walls of a house may differ: brick and block houses are characterized by in-depth installation of windows, when relative to the outer surface of the wall the window is recessed several centimeters deep into the structure. For wooden houses and attics of brick houses, windows are usually installed at the same level as the outer surface of the walls. Installing sheathing in this case may make windows installed flush with the wall also recessed, but this can be avoided in some cases. Provided that the wooden attic is made in compliance with all standards, installation of sheathing will not be necessary - the windows will remain at the level of the wall surface.

Important: The cladding of window and door openings is carried out using a similar technology.

Preparing to install Docke trims

Before starting work, the openings are protected from moisture penetration: window and door openings can be made of aprons made of galvanized steel, aluminum foil or roofing felt (Fig. 22). Additionally, Stroymet specialists recommend the use of silicone sealant.

Rice. 22. Waterproofing of window and door openings: a - flush with the wall; b - protruding from the wall; 1 - sheathing; 2 - silicone sealant; 3 - lower apron made of roofing sheet; 4 - the same, lateral; 5 - the same, upper; 6 - aluminum tape or sealant; 7 - upper L-shaped apron made of roofing sheet; 8 - the same, side

Regardless of what apron material you use, their installation should begin from the bottom strip of the opening.

• Apply silicone sealant to the sheathing. Next, nail the bottom strip of the apron on top of it (fastening with nails along the upper edge of the strip will allow, if necessary, to bend the strip and bring the row under it, thereby ensuring water drainage).
• Having installed the apron on the bottom strip of the opening, proceed to install the side strips. Fastening is done with nails at the same distance from the opening that was chosen when installing the lower apron.
• Complete the fastening of the top strip by installing the apron.

Important: All waterproofing elements must be installed on top of each other - this is the only way to ensure normal water flow.

If the waterproofing is not mounted flush with the wall, but along the protrusion of the sheathing of the opening from the wall, you should use L-shaped aprons made of roofing sheet with a narrow edge extending over the entire thickness of the sheathing. The latter are fastened in compliance with the rule: the side aprons cover the lower one, and the upper one covers the side ones.

Important: Under no circumstances should the siding backing/profiles be attached directly to the window/door unit. In this case, when replacing a window or door, you will be forced to partially remove the siding.

Installation of Deke trims

Framing window/door openings usually begins after installing the trim on the corners of the building. Platbands for finishing windows are one of the best options. Let's consider the technology of their installation.

Preparation for installation of platbands requires:

• along the perimeter of the window, retreating about 2-3 mm from the inner edge of the opening, fasten 80 mm sections of the starting profile;
• install the starting profile with the locking part inside the window opening (Fig. 23d);
• make the space between the sections of the starting profile fixed on the same side of the opening no more than 30 cm long.

Rice. 23. Framing window openings without using slopes with Docke platband

Framing openings with intersection “at an angle” (“at an angle”)

Framing with an intersection "at the corner" is one of the most used options for framing openings.

Requirements for elements:

• use four platbands (two platbands for framing the sides, as well as two for the top and bottom of the opening);
• the height and width of the elements must strictly correspond to the same parameters of the opening.

Trimming elements:

• the ends of the upper horizontal platband must be cut at an angle of 45°;
• at an angle of 45 ° on two side trims, only the lower ends need to be cut (Fig. 23c), leaving the upper ends cut at 90 °;
• the upper casing is cut on both sides (the length of the cut is 20 mm) (Fig. 23a), after which the cut sections are bent to the bottom so that they form the so-called "tongues" - elements that will subsequently drain water into the side casings from the top;
• Stroymet specialists recommend cutting the upper edge of the side trim at the place of perforation for nails, cut off a section with the width of the perforation tape up to the second fold of the element and 20 mm long from the top edge, bringing the edge of the cut to the upper edge of the side trim at an angle of 45 °; on the opposite side of the side trim, fasteners are also cut off 20 mm in length to the junction with the back of the trim;
• the lower trim on both sides is cut in the same way as the upper edge of the side trim with the only difference: when making an incision from the side of the nail strip, it is cut in an L-shape, the cut length should be 20 mm, it is not necessary to cut the cut at 45 °.

Installation progress:

• Install the lower casing. Under the previously installed fixing profile (an element 80 mm long, installed in increments of no more than 30 cm), fold the outer edge of the casing. Fix it in any convenient way (using nails or self-tapping screws), using the holes for fasteners in the perforated strip.
• Following a similar procedure, secure any of the vertical trims.

Important: Side trims should only be installed on top of the bottom trims. To join the elements on the lower casing, you previously had to make 20 mm cuts (Fig. 23b).

• When joining the vertical and lower trims, you should leave small thermal gaps between them.
• Install the top casing strictly on top of the side casing. Please note that there should not be a tight junction of the elements: as in the case of joining the side and bottom trim, there should be a thermal gap of approximately 1-3 mm between the top and side.

Important: The gap size for each window opening must be calculated individually. Thermal expansion is also partially compensated by the height of the nail holes on the casing.

• Install the second side trim.
• Lastly, bend the “tongues” of the upper casing inside the side ones.

If you decide to leave larger gaps inside the joining corners, it is also better to change the cutting angle: this way the upper profiles will cover the temperature gaps.

Remember that the size of the gaps depends on the size of the openings. If the opening is very narrow, it is allowed not to leave gaps, because in this case, thermal expansion will be provided by perforated holes for nails.

Rice. 24. Framing window and door openings with near-window profiles

Installation of Docke siding profiles near windows

The Docke window profile can be used to frame openings with slopes up to 200 mm deep (taking into account the thickness of the sheathing). This profile can be used to frame almost all windows and doors, if they were installed according to the standard.

The window siding profile is still the same platband, the only difference is that a vinyl slope is attached to the profile, which can be used to cover the slope of the wall near the window or door. The technology for installing near-window profiles is similar to the technology for installing platbands, but with a slight difference:

• the slope part of the near-window profile is cut differently than the casing;
• A finishing strip must be attached around the perimeter of the window, in which the slope part of the profile is then placed;
• special notches are made in the slope part, ensuring reliable fixation of the strip along the entire perimeter of the window.

The wall part of the near-window profile is trimmed according to the recommendations for trimming the casing. The process of trimming the slope part, as well as installing the profile, is carried out as follows: it is necessary to install the upper and lower strips, followed by two side ones (Fig. 24).

Trimming elements:

• the vinyl shelf forming the slope in the upper plank is cut to the length of the upper slope of the opening, subtracting from the length of the element the amount of temperature gaps that should be made on both sides of the profile;

Important: The size of the gaps depends on the length of the inil profile. The gap will allow the plank to expand freely as the ambient temperature increases: the panel will not rest against the side slopes, and therefore the profile will not warp. When installing the panels, take into account the current air temperature: the lower it is, the larger the gaps should be left. And vice versa: installation of profiles in hot weather requires minimal gaps or, alternatively, they may not be made at all.

• The marking of the lower profile is carried out similarly to the upper one, however, this time no cuts are made along it - the “excess” material is folded onto the slopes of the walls (and you can do the same with the upper profile - do not cut the material, but bend it onto the walls).

Installation of ebb tides is not necessary - it is replaced by the lower window strip.

Installation progress:

• Installation of side profiles. To do this, it is necessary to rest the top of the side slope against the upper slope (the lengthening of the side bar is practically not observed, so the elements can be mounted end-to-end). The temperature gap is left only between the lower edge of the side slope flange and the lower profile flange. Since the ends of the lower profile were bent to the wall, the gap at the junction of the slope shelves will be invisible.
• To install side slopes, first the left panel must be moved to the right towards the center of the opening (approximately 10...12 mm), then the right panel - similarly to the left. Thus, narrowing at low air temperatures, the upper slope will not fly out of the upper fastening unit.

When performing work on windows of standard sizes, Stroymet engineers recommend filling the seams with sealant. Silicone will allow the parts to be glued to expand when the ambient temperature changes. Often this reserve is sufficient. But on large windows, the seams should be left unchanged - this way the profiles will not swell during expansion caused by temperature changes.

Installation of Deke siding trims (framing of openings)

The carved platband is installed similarly to the Docke platband with a width of 89 mm. Before assembling the carved casing, prepare a colored insert: 70…85 mm wide, with a length equal to the length of the casing.

The material for insertion can be the flat part of the panel D4.5D (Fig. 25a), D5C (Fig. 25b) or solid soffit (Fig. 25c).

The insert is fixed with brackets made by hand: from scraps of siding / solid soffit, you can cut out a bracket blank (Fig. 25d) - a strip of 105x15 mm. Bend the edges of the cut by 17 mm on each side: the staple is ready!

The insert is placed in the casing with the front side facing the slots.

Exception: in the case when the D4.5D board served as the material for making the insert, the beveled part of the plank should be placed on the side of the nail perforation of the casing (Fig. 25e).

The insert must be fastened with staples inside the casing so that the bent edge of the staple is located on the opposite side of the nail perforation (Fig. 25g).

The insert is fixed with brackets inserted into the casing with a step of 150 mm (Fig. 25h).

When the installation of the carved platband is completed, drainage holes in the amount of 2...4 pieces are made under the vertical strips, the diameter of each hole should be 4...6 mm (Fig. 25i).

Rice. 25z

• Fasten the finishing profile to the wall by placing it around the perimeter of the window (Fig. 26a).
• Install fasteners with a millimeter gap between the panel and the head in the upper nail hole.
• Install subsequent fasteners in the center of the nail perforation (fastening spacing 20...40 cm).
• Leave thermal gaps at the joints (pre-calculate the size of the gap in accordance with the length of the element being installed).

Rice. 25i

• Install a slope in the finishing profile (Fig. 26b). Attach the slope to the wall.
• Trim the siding slope to the required width. Make notches in the part of the slope installed in the finishing profile (Fig. 27a). These notches are necessary in order to fix the slope, taking into account the thermal expansion of the elements.
• Fix the slope in the finishing profile and secure it to the wall in a place prepared in advance for fastening.

Rice. 26a

• Fix the platband in connection with the slope (Fig. 26c) and secure it to the wall, following the recommendations for installing platbands set out above.

Rice. 26b

After the platband has been assembled, you can begin further installation of the siding (Fig. 26d).

Rice. 27. Installation diagram of the Docke casing and slope